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Splicing Instructions

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Splicing Instructions For:
LEGG CONVEYOR BELTING
Legg Co. recommends the use of REMA Tip Top splice materials for the hot vulcanize splice of all their conveyor belting.

Multi-ply Belting        VIPER        VIPER II

Multi-ply Belt Splicing Instructions

Work Surface:  In order to insure a good vulcanized splice for any type of belt, a good work surface should be available.  It should be a strong, sturdy work surface large enough to accommodate the workers and the belt ends.  It should be free from dirt, build up, oils, grease, and any other foreign matter.  Keep the work area free of excess tools as they might cause a trip hazard.  The area should be protected from the wind to insure even and accurate curing temperatures.  The area should be covered if there is any chance of precipitation during the entire vulcanized splice process.  The number one cause of splice failure is contamination of the belt ends during the splicing process.

Belt Cleaning:  Before starting your splice insure that the belt is clean and dry.  Clean the belt if necessary.  The belt should be free from any contamination from the product or from shipping and handling.  Scrape off material and wash with water if it is a water soluble material, or with solvent if it is an oil based material.

Note: Make sure that the belt is completely dry before proceeding.  Use a Drying Hood, Air Dryer, or the press (approx. 180^oF) to dry the belt.  The ambient temperature as well as the temperature of the belt and the splicing products should be between +45^oF to +100^oF

1.  Pull the new belt onto the conveyor, use adequate cable or the old belt if it is a replacement belt.  Clamp both ends of the new belt while under adequate tension. (Be sure to release any tension in the tension station!)

2.  Pull the belt ends together, laying the trailing end over the leading end.  Align the belt ends so the edges are flush with each other.  The over lap should be equal to the splice length plus bias cut.

Preparation of the lower belt end.

1.  Fold back the upper belt end well out of your way so you can work.

2.  Make a bias cut on the lower belt end on a 22 degree diagonal, which is obtained by using a lead (bias) equal to .4 of the belt width.  

3.  Fold back the lower belt end and draw a line parallel to the first bias mark, but 1" further back on belts of less than 600 PIW AWT, and 2" further back on belts of 600 PIW AWT or higher.

4.  Take a knife and cut through the bottom cover along the pulley side bias line on a 45^o bevel, make sure not to cut through or nick the bottom ply.

5.  Using pincers, pull the section of the bottom cover off of the bottom ply, preparing the future joint gap.

6.  Lay the lower belt end back over flat on the work surface.

7.  Measure back along each edge of the belt from the end of the lower belt end according the "Total Splice Length" in Table A.  Mark each edge of the belt and draw a line  connecting the two marks using a straight edge.

8.  Make a cut along the bias line drawn in Step 7 down to the top ply.  Be very careful not to nick or cut the top fabric ply.

9.  Move back 1" from the bias line and cut at a 45^o bevel down to the top ply.  Be very careful not to nick or cut the top fabric ply.

10.  In 1" increments, make parallel cuts to the bias line down to the top ply of fabric.   Be very careful not to nick or cut the fabric ply.

11. Using pincers remove the 1" strip behind the bias line, and remove every 1" strip of the top cover to the end of the belt.

12. Measure back from the bias cut end (Total Splice Length) to locate the first step in the carcass and, using a straight edge, make a line across the belt.  (The step length should be according to Table A.)

13.  Cut along the line through the top ply to the ply underneath.  Be very careful not to nick or cut the top fabric ply.  In 1" increments, cut down to the next ply to the end of the belt, making 1" strips.

14. Using pincers remove each 1" strip until the top ply has been removed and the next ply is exposed.

15. Repeat Steps 11 through 13 until all the plies of the lower belt end have been stepped down.

Preparation of the upper belt end.

1. Lay the upper belt end directly back over on top of the lower belt end.  Pull the belt tight and position the upper belt end directly over the lower belt end, making sure to align the belt center lines.  Mark the edge of the belt at the cut line of the top ply.

2.  Using a straight edge, mark a line from the marks on each edge of the upper belt end.  Measure back 1" from the line on belts of less than 600 PIW, 2" from the line on belts of 600 PIW AWT or higher, and draw a diagonal line.    

3.  Take a knife and cut through the top cover along the second diagonal line on a 45^o bevel, make sure not to cut through or nick the top ply.

4.    Using the knife, cut through the top cover on the first diagonal line.  Using pincers, pull this section of the top cover off of the top ply, preparing the future joint gap.

5.  Now cut the belt at the first diagonal line directly above the cut in the top ply on the lower belt end.  This completes the cutting of the belt to length and preparation of the joint gap.       

6.  Lay the upper belt end back over on it's self.  Make sure the belt end is laying far enough back to allow yourself adequate belt end length to work with.

7.  Measure back along each edge of the belt from the end of the upper belt end according the "Total Splice Length" in Table A.  Mark each edge of the belt and draw a line  connecting the two marks using a straight edge.

8.  Make a cut along the bias line down to the bottom ply.  Be very careful not to nick or cut the bottom fabric ply.

9.  Move back 1" from the bias line and cut at a 45^o Angle down to the bottom ply.  Be very careful not to nick or cut the bottom fabric ply.

10.  In 1" increments, make parallel cuts to the bias line down to the bottom ply of fabric.   Be very careful not to nick or cut the bottom fabric ply.

11. Using pincers remove the 1" strip behind the bias line, and remove every 1" strip of the bottom cover to the end of the belt.

12. Measure back from the first bias line (Total Splice Length) to the end of the first step in the carcass and, using a straight edge, make a line across the belt.  (The step length should be according to Table A.)

13.  Cut along the line through the bottom ply to the ply underneath.  Be very careful not to nick or cut the next fabric ply.  In 1" increments, cut down to the next ply to the end of the belt, making 1" strips.

14. Using pincers remove each 1" strip until the top ply has been removed and the next ply is exposed.

15. Repeat Steps 12 through 14 until all the plies of the lower belt end have been stepped down.

Preparation of the plied area for splice

1.  Leave the upper end of the belt laying back over on it's self.  If the rubber did not pull clean from the fabric on belt ends, then you will need to buff the splice

2. Using a rotary grinder, buff any excess rubber off of the splice areas.  Grind down until you just start to see exposed fabric.  Be extremely careful not to damage the fabric ply.  Do not allow excess heat to build up in the rubber, gummy reverted rubber will almost certainly result in premature splice failure.

3. Clean entire splice, both belt ends, all exposed belt, with a solvent and clean shop rag.  Change to a clean shop rag when needed to insure that all foreign matter has been removed from the splice.  Allow to dry completely or the risk of blowups is greatly elevated. 

4. If the rubber peeled clean from the fabric during the plying down process, then you will have to apply a fabric primer to the exposed fabric.  Allow to dry completely or the risk of blowups is greatly elevated. 

5. Cut skim compound and cover compound from the splice kit to fit the splice areas.

Note:  All skim stock should be freshened with the proper solvent and rolled down.  Polyethylene backing removed, stitched or pricked to remove any trapped air, then freshened again before proceeding to the next step.  If sufficient tack is not felt on the freshened skim stock or cover stock then all skims and cover stocks should be cemented for tack.

6. Lay the lower belt end over and apply skim, breaker, and bottom cover filler strip, roll with roller to evacuate all trapped air.

7. Lay the lower belt end back over flat on the work surface.  Lay each skim sheet down one at a time onto the ply step and roll with roller to evacuate all trapped air.

8. Lay the upper belt end back over on top of the lower belt end.  Make sure to lay the lower ply step down first and roll the step together to evacuate all trapped air.

9. Repeat step 8 until all steps have been lain together and rolled.

10. Lay in the top cover skim, breaker, and top cover filler strip.   Roll down and puncture the cover stock with an awl to allow air to escape while curing.  Be sure to puncture all the way to the fabric to allow air to escape from the carcass lay up areas.

Curing The Splice

1.  Measure the overall gauge of the belt and select side bars or side fillers that are at least 1/16" under belt gauge.

2.  Lay press pad on the bottom platen.

3.  Place side bars or side filler strips in back of splice press.

4.  Position the splice press on the work surface under the belt.  You will have to carefully raise the belt to allow the splice press to be positioned under the belt.

5.  Place front side bars or side filler strips in the splice press.

6.  Position upper press pad on top of the splice.

7.  Check the position of the belt, pads, side bars, and press to insure a straight and even cure.

8. Close press, pressurize, and cure according to Table B1.

9. Legg Co. recommends the use of a thermocouple placed against the splice to determine when the splice cure temps are attained and the timer should start.

Finished Multi-Ply Splice Diagram

Note:  Be sure to let the press/splice cool down to 200^o F or less before depressurizing the press to avoid blowups.

All recommendations for the procedures described herein and all other data or information set forth in these procedures, whether concerning such procedures or otherwise, are furnished without any warranty, representation or inducement of any kind, whether expressed or implied, including but not limited to, implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose or application, and Legg Company expressly disclaims liability under any theory, including, without limitation, contract, negligence, misrepresentation or breach of any obligation relating to the recommendation, data, or information set forth herein.  Readers and customers are encouraged to conduct their own tests before using any of these procedures.  Before using any product, read it’s label and all related instructions.  Obey any and all safety warnings and wear any and all protective clothing and safety gear.  Obey any and all material and container disposal instructions.

VIPER

Work Surface:  In order to insure a good vulcanized splice for any type of belt, a good work surface should be available.  A good strong and sturdy work surface large enough to accommodate the workers and the belt ends.  It should be free from dirt, build up, oils, grease, and any other foreign matter.  Keep the work area free of excess tools as they might cause a trip hazard.  The area should be protected from the wind to insure even and accurate curing temperatures.  The area should be covered if there is any chance of precipitation during the entire vulcanized splice process.  The number one cause of splice failure is contamination of the belt ends during the splicing process.

Note: Make sure that the belt is completely dry before proceeding.  Use a Drying Hood, Air Dryer, or the press (approx. 180^oF) to dry the belt.  The ambient temperature as well as the temperature of the belt and the splicing products should be between +45^oF to +100^oF

This splice type is one in which the bias-cut single ply straight warp tension fabric belt carcass ends are butted together.  It is recommended for belts with a minimum of 3/32” thick covers.  Vulcanized splices on belts with 3/32” top cover and 1/16” bottom cover or heavier, Should be made with a scab fabric bridging the fabric seam on the carrying side of the belt and a nylon breaker bridging the seam on the pulley side. If any of the warp (strength) yarns are damaged during the splicing procedure, especially when cutting and removing the rubber covers, the strength of the splice will be drastically compromised.

As with any splice a belt center-line must be established and maintained.

The splice should be made on a 22 degree diagonal, which is obtained by using a lead (bias) equal to .4 of the belt width.

Preparing the First Belt End

1.     For Viper 220 - 440 belts, measure into the belts 13 ½” from the bias line.  For Viper 550 belts, measure into the belt 17 ½”

2.     Make a cut along the 13 ½” or 17 ½” diagonal line.  Cut into the top rubber cover, being extremely careful not to cut or nick the underlying carcass fabric.  Now remove this diagonal strip of top rubber cover from the belt carcass.

Note 1: For molded edge belts, a longitudinal cut one-inch wide along each belt edge is made before stripping off the top cover.  After the top cover diagonal strip is pulled off, the remaining one-inch wide rubber strips are cut flush with the carcass.  Be sure to leave the edge rubber on the carcass edge itself.

3.     Transfer the top cover diagonal line to the pulley cover to establish the pulley cover bias.  Measure 3 ½” into the belt and remove this diagonal strip of pulley cover, again being extremely careful not to cut or nick the underlying carcass fabric.

            Note 2:  For molded edge belts, repeat the edge cuts described for the top cover removal. (Note 1)

4.     You may now remove any excess belt used for hold down purposes during the strip down process and discard.

Preparing the Second Belt End

1.     Use the same procedure to prepare the opposite end of the belt.  The diagonal lines must be parallel when the belt ends are butted together.

2.     Feather or skive the fabric carcass of both belt ends for an overlap of approximately ½” to ¾”.  A disc sander may be used to feather the carcass ends.

3.     The disc sander should be used to buff the cover rubber 1 ½” beyond the cover cuts on both sides of the belt.  Round off any and all sharp edges created by the knife cuts.

            Note:  DO NOT use the disc sander on the carcass.  This may result in carcass/fabric damage.  

4.     All exposed carcass areas on each belt end should be buffed lightly by hand.  Emery cloth or 60-grit sandpaper works well.  A light nap or fuzziness should be raised when buffing is completed.  Any excess rubber left on the fabric after strip down should be removed in this step until fabric shows through over the entire surface.

5.     Bring the belt ends together with a slight overlap.  Insure the center lines of the two belt ends are in alignment.  Clamp both ends securely to the work surface.

6.     Clean exposed belt ends by lightly brushing grindings from carcass.  Wash the buffed cover rubber with solvent, being careful not to allow any solvent onto the carcass fabric.  If solvent is allowed onto the carcass fabric, adequate drying time must be utilized to prevent blows.

7.     Apply one coat of Chem-Lok^Ò 250 primer (or your splice primer) to the skived belt ends prepared previously, as well as any other exposed fabric areas.

8.     Cement the stripped areas of both ends, top and bottom, including the cover gum steps.  Apply two coats of cement except where a primer has been used, then apply only one coat.  Allow the first coat to dry before applying the second coat.  It is imperative that adequate drying time is allowed to prevent blows.

Splice Preparation for Pulley Side.

Construct the splice from the pulley side up.

1.     Lay a piece of smooth Teflon coated release fabric on a work surface.  Lay the pulley cover insert on the release pad and use an awl to make numerous punctures in the insert to allow trapped air to escape during splice cure.

Note:  All skim stock should be freshened with the proper solvent and rolled down.  Polyethylene backing removed, stitched or pricked to remove any trapped air, then freshened again before proceeding to the next step.  If sufficient tack is not felt on the freshened skim stock or cover stock then all skims and cover stocks should be cemented for tack.

2.     Remove the poly backing from the pre-skimmed breaker strip, wash with solvent, dry, and center the pre-skimmed breaker strip onto the pulley cover stock.

3.     A 2” strip of .030” skim is placed across the breaker strip in a position to be directly under the cut line of the carcass joint.

4.     Use skim to build up the breaker strip borders to the same thickness of the breaker strip.  The final layer of skim should extend over the cover edges and 1 ½ inches beyond each end.  When the skimmed breaker strip and cover are placed into the splice area, the 1 ½ inches of extra skim will cover the buffed pulley cover at each end of the slice.

5.     Work the breaker strip and cover stock insert into proper position under the pulley side of the cemented and mated belt ends.  Roll down the carcass layers with a roller making sure you roll from the center out.

Splice Preparation for Carrying Side.

1.     Apply a 2” piece of .030” skim to the skived portion of the fabric on one belt end.  Mate the other belt end over the skim and skived area.  The piece of skim should be in the joint of the slightly overlapped carcass ends.

2.     Apply another 2” piece of .030” skim over the overlapped joint areas. With a piece of .030” skim, cover the entire splice area including the 1 ½” buffed cover areas.

3.     Preparation of the pre-skimmed splice scab fabric should begin while the covers are being stripped.  The pre-skimmed splice scab fabric has a direction of travel arrow on the fabric.  Lay the scab over the splice.  Then cut the extreme leading and trailing points off the scab.  Measure 1” along the scab edge, 2” along the bias, and connect these points.  Remove these two triangular pieces.

4.     Remove the backing from the skim which was placed over the entire splice area.  Roll and stitch down thoroughly with a prick roller and then wash it with solvent and allow it to dry.  Apply and roll down the splice fabric.  Insure that the width of the fabric extends to the carcass edges.  It is particularly important that the Kevlar scab fabric not extend beyond the edges of the belt.  The length of the scab fabric will cover the splice joint but will not extend to the cover steps.  Use strips of the skim stock to build up the borders of the splice area to the splice fabric thickness.

            Note:  For a molded edge belt, use skim stock to build up the belt edges on the required molded edge gauge. 

5.     Place the cover stock insert in the splice area.  Skive the cover stock to form a smooth joint where it meets the cover steps.  Trim the cover stock at the edges.  Roll down and puncture the cover stock with an awl to allow air to escape while curing.  Be sure to puncture all the way to the fabric to allow air to escape from the carcass lay up areas.

Completed Viper Splice Diagram

If your splice appears like the above diagram, then your splice is ready to cure.

Curing The Splice

1.   Move the splice INCLUDING THE RELEASE PAD into the splice press.  

2.   Lay another piece of smooth Teflon coated release pad over the splice area.  Make sure the release pads on the top and bottom extend at least 6” past the splice area.  Close the press and pressurize.  Cure according to the Table B2 below.    

3.  Legg Co. recommends the use of a thermocouple placed against the splice to determine when the splice cure temps are attained and the timer should start.

Note:  Be sure to let the press/splice cool down to 200^o F or less before depressurizing the press to avoid blowups.

All recommendations for the procedures described herein and all other data or information set forth in these procedures, whether concerning such procedures or otherwise, are furnished without any warranty, representation or inducement of any kind, whether expressed or implied, including but not limited to, implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose or application, and Legg Company expressly disclaims liability under any theory, including, without limitation, contract, negligence, misrepresentation or breach of any obligation relating to the recommendation, data, or information set forth herein.  Readers and customers are encouraged to conduct their own tests before using any of these procedures.  Before using any product, read it’s label and all related instructions.  Obey any and all safety warnings and wear any and all protective clothing and safety gear.  Obey any and all material and container disposal instructions.

VIPER II

Work Surface:  In order to insure a good vulcanized splice for any type of belt, a good work surface should be available.  A good strong and sturdy work surface large enough to accommodate the workers and the belt ends.  It should be free from dirt, build up, oils, grease, and any other foreign matter.  Keep the work area free of excess tools as they might cause a trip hazard.  The area should be protected from the wind to insure even and accurate curing temperatures.  The area should be covered if there is any chance of precipitation during the entire vulcanized splice process.  The number one cause of splice failure is contamination of the belt ends during the splicing process.

Note: Make sure that the belt is completely dry before proceeding.  Use a Drying Hood, Air Dryer, or the press (approx. 180^oF) to dry the belt.  The ambient temperature as well as the temperature of the belt and the splicing products should be between +45^oF to +100^oF

This splice type is used for belts that utilize two plies of straight warp tension fabric.  It is recommended for belts with a minimum of a 3/16” thick top cover and 3/32” bottom cover.  It is a splice where each layer is cut on the bias and “stepped” so that the cut line of the two plies are offset to distribute the load.  The prepared belt ends are bonded together using a skim rubber, Kevlar scab fabric on the top, and a nylon breaker on the bottom, and cover stocks.  If any of the yarns are damaged during the splicing procedure, especially when cutting and removing the rubber covers, the strength of the splice will be drastically compromised.

As with any splice a belt center line must be established and maintained.

The splice should be made on a 22 degree diagonal which is obtained by using a lead (bias) equal to .4 of the belt width.

Preparing the First Belt End

1.     Splice dimensions and splice lengths are shown in the following Table C.  You will need these lengths PLUS 4/10ths of the belt width for the 22 degree bias. 

2.     Make and mark the measurements on the leading belt end.  Cut the cover on a 45-degree skive.  Cut the cover at one-inch intervals for ease of removal.  After the removal of the carry cover, the edge strip should be removed down to the carcass using a flat knife, leaving the carcass edges intact.  Be extremely careful not to cut or nick the underlying carcass fabric. 

            Note 1: For molded edge belts, a longitudinal cut one-inch wide along each belt edge is made before stripping off the top cover.  After the top cover diagonal strip is pulled off, the remaining one-inch wide rubber strips are cut flush with the carcass.  Be sure to leave the edge rubber on the carcass edge itself. 

3.     Lay out the bias step length on the surface of the exposed top carcass.  Using a hook type utility blade knife, cut through the top carcass layer.  Be extremely careful not to cut or nick the underlying carcass fabric.  With a blunt-end prodder, open up the cut and break the skim between layers.  

4.  Now remove the top carcass layer.  Shave the remaining strip of rubber at each edge until it is flush with the top surface of the exposed bottom carcass. 

            Note 2: For a molded edge belt, repeat the edge cuts described for the top cover removal. (Note 1) 

5.     Transfer the top cover bias line to the pulley cover.  Mark the pulley cover bias.  Repeat the edge cuts as you did for the top cover.  Remove 5 ½ or 7 ½ inches (according to the Table D) of the bottom cover from the leading belt end.

Preparing the Second Belt End

1.     Remove the same amount of top cover that was removed from the first belt end.  Transfer the bias lines from the top cover to the bottom cover.  Using the step lengths shown in the Table D, remove the bottom cover and bottom carcass layer.  The diagonal lines must be parallel when the belt ends are butted together.

2.     Remove the bottom cover, bottom carcass layer, and molded edge using the same procedure as the top cover.

3.     Buff the top and bottom cover rubber with a disc sander approx. 1 ½ inches back making sure to round off any sharp edges.

            Note:  DO NOT use the disc sander on the carcass.  This may result in carcass/fabric damage.  

4.     Skive back the carcass ends approx. 1" with a knife on each side of the belt.  When done properly a “V” should be formed from the inside of the belt and out.  The ends of the carcass should also be lightly feathered with the disc grinder.

5.     All exposed carcass areas on each belt end should be buffed lightly by hand.  Emery cloth or 60-grit sandpaper works well.  A light nap or fuzziness should be raised when buffing is completed.  Any excess rubber left on the fabric after strip down should be removed in this step until fabric shows through over the entire surface. 

6.     Dry mate the belt ends together being sure to align the center-lines.  A close fit should be achieved, if not, work the belt ends until it is a close fit.  Now clamp the belt splice to a secure, dry, and clean work surface. 

Note:  For Viper II/1000 thru Viper II/1500 a 1-inch gap should exists at the top and bottom of the butt joint.  

Note:  The proper position for the two-inch skim strip and triangular ridge can be marked on the breaker strip during dry mating.

7.     Lightly brush all grindings from the carcass on both exposed belt ends.  Clean the buffed cover rubber with solvent.

Note:  DO NOT let the cleaning solvent soak into the fabric carcass.  If you do, extra drying time should be allowed at this time to completely dry the carcass fabric.

8.     Apply one coat of Chem-Lok^Ò 250 primer to all exposed fabric areas, top and bottom.  Allow at least one hour drying.

9.     Cement the stripped areas of both ends, top and bottom, including the cover gum steps.  Apply two coats of cement except where the Chem-Lok^® 250 primer has been used, then apply only one coat.  Allow the first coat to dry before applying the second coat.  It is imperative that adequate drying time is allowed to prevent blows.

10. All skim stock should be freshened with the proper solvent and rolled down.  Polyethylene backing removed, stitched or pricked to remove any trapped air, then freshened again before proceeding to the next step.  If sufficient tack is not felt on the freshened shim stock or cover stock then all skims and cover stocks should be cemented for tack.

Splice Preparation for Pulley Side.

Construct the splice from the pulley side up.

1.     Lay a piece of smooth Teflon coated release fabric on a work surface.  Lay the properly trimmed and shaped pulley cover insert on the release pad and use an awl to make numerous punctures in the insert to allow trapped air to escape during splice cure.

Note:  All skim stock should be freshened with the proper solvent and rolled down.  Polyethylene backing removed, stitched or pricked to remove any trapped air, then freshened again before proceeding to the next step.  If sufficient tack is not felt on the freshened skim stock or cover stock then all skims and cover stocks should be cemented for tack.

2.     Remove the backing from the breaker strip, clean with appropriate solvent, MAKE SURE to let the breaker strip dry before use, and center the pre-skimmed breaker strip onto the pulley cover stock.

3.     A 2” strip of .030” skim is placed across the breaker strip in a position to be directly under the cut line of the carcass joint.

4.     Fill the “V” shaped opening at the bottom with a triangular ridge made with strips of skim stock.

Note:  The proper position for the two-inch skim strip and triangular ridge can be marked on the breaker strip during dry mating.

5.     Use skim to build up the breaker strip borders to the same thickness of the breaker strip.  The final layer of skim should extend over the cover edges and 1 ½ inches beyond each end.  When the skimmed breaker strip and cover are placed into the splice area, the 1 ½ inches of extra skim will cover the buffed pulley cover at each end of the slice.

6.     Work the breaker strip and cover stock insert into proper position under the pulley side of the cemented and mated belt ends.  Roll down the carcass layers with a roller making sure to roll from the center to the edges.

Splice Preparation for Carrying Side.

1.     With the step in the top layer, apply a piece of .060” skim cover to the exposed surface of the bottom carcass layer.  Be sure to roll and stitch down the splice thoroughly.

2.     Fill in the “V” joint using several pieces of freshened skim stock.  Make this flush with the top of the carcass.  Be sure to center a 2-inch wide piece of .030-inch skim over the ”V” joint in the fabric ends.

3.     Now cover the entire splice to include the 1 ½-inch buffed cover area with .030-inch skim.  For Viper II/1000 thru Viper II/1500 use .060-inch skim.

Note:  DO NOT remove the Polyethylene backing at this time.

4.     Preparation of the pre-skimmed splice scab fabric should begin while the covers are being stripped.  The pre-skimmed splice scab fabric has a direction of travel arrow on the fabric.  Lay the scab over the splice.  Then cut the extreme leading and trailing points off the scab.  Measure 1” along the scab edge, 2” along the bias, and connect these points.  Remove these two triangular pieces.

5.     Remove the backing from the skim which was placed over the entire splice area.  Roll and stitch down thoroughly with a prick roller and then clean with appropriate solvent, MAKE SURE to let the breaker strip dry before use.  Apply and roll down the splice scab fabric.  Insure that the width of the fabric extends to the carcass edges.  The length of the scab fabric will cover the splice joint but will not extend to the cover steps.  Use strips of the skim stock to build up the borders of the splice area to the splice fabric thickness.

Note:  For a molded edge belt, use skim stock to build up the belt edges to the required molded edge gauge.

6.     Place the cover stock insert in the splice area.  Skive the cover stock to form a smooth joint where it meets the cover steps.  Trim the cover stock at the edges.  Roll down and puncture the cover stock with an awl to allow air to escape while curing.  Be sure to puncture all the way to the fabric to allow air to escape from the carcass lay up areas.

Completed Viper II Splice Diagram

If your splice appears like the above diagram, then your splice is ready to cure.

Curing The Splice

1.     Move the splice INCLUDING THE RELEASE PAD into the splice press.  Lay another piece of smooth Teflon coated release pad over the splice area.  Make sure the release pads on the top and bottom extend at least 6” past the splice area.  Close the press and pressurize.  Cure according to the Table B3.

2.  Legg Co. recommends the use of a thermocouple placed against the splice to determine when the splice cure temps are attained and the timer should start.

Note:  Be sure to let the press/splice cool down to 200^o F or less before depressurizing the press to avoid blowups.

All recommendations for the procedures described herein and all other data or information set forth in these procedures, whether concerning such procedures or otherwise, are furnished without any warranty, representation or inducement of any kind, whether expressed or implied, including but not limited to, implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose or application, and Legg Company expressly disclaims liability under any theory, including, without limitation, contract, negligence, misrepresentation or breach of any obligation relating to the recommendation, data, or information set forth herein.  Readers and customers are encouraged to conduct their own tests before using any of these procedures.  Before using any product, read it’s label and all related instructions.  Obey any and all safety warnings and wear any and all protective clothing and safety gear.  Obey any and all material and container disposal instructions.